Fair & Lovely

in newspapers or on the Web that are used by families to arrange suitable alliances, and you will see that most potential grooms and their families are looking for â€Å"fair† brides; some even are progressive enough to invite responses from women belonging to a different caste. These ads, hundreds of which appear in India’s daily newspapers, re? ect attempts to solicit individuals with the appropriate religion, caste, regional ancestry, professional and educational quali? cations, and, frequently, skin color. Even in the growing numbers of ads that announce â€Å"caste no bar,† the adjective â€Å"fair† regularly precedes professional quali? ations. In everyday conversation, the ultimate compliment on someone’s looks is to say someone is gora (fair). â€Å"I have no problem with people wanting to be lighter,† said a Delhi beauty parlor owner, Saroj Nath. â€Å"It doesn’t make you racist, any more than trying to make yourself look you nger makes you ageist. † Bollywood (India’s Hollywood) glori? es conventions on beauty by always casting a fair-skinned actress in the role of heroine, surrounded by the darkest extras. Women want to use whiteners because it is â€Å"aspirational, like losing weight. Even the gods supposedly lament their dark complexion— Krishna sings plaintively, â€Å"Radha kyoon gori, main kyoon kala? (Why is Radha so fair when I’m dark? ). † A skin de? cient in melanin (the pigment that determines the skin’s brown color) is an ancient predilection. More than 3,500 years ago, Charaka, the famous sage, wrote about herbs that could help make the skin fair. Indian dermatologists maintain that fairness products cannot truly work as they reach only the upper layers of the skin and so do not affect melanin production. Nevertheless, for some, Fair & Lovely is a â€Å"miracle worker. A user gushes that â€Å"The last time I went to my parents’ home, I go t compliments on my fair skin from everyone. † For others, there is only disappointment. One 26-year-old working woman has been a regular user for the past eight years but to no avail. â€Å"I should have turned into Snow White by now but my skin is still the same wheatish color. † As an owner of a public relations ? rm commented, â€Å"My maid has been using Fair and Lovely for years and I still can’t see her in the dark . . .. But she goes on using it. Hope springs eternal, I suppose. † The number of Indians who think lighter skin is more beautiful may be shrinking. Sumit Isralni, a 22-year-old hair designer in his father’s salon, thinks things have changed in the last two years, at least in India’s most cosmopolitan cities, Delhi, Mumbai, and Bangalore. Women now â€Å"prefer their own complexion, their natural way† Isralni says; he prefers a more â€Å"Indian beauty† himself: â€Å"I won’t judge my wife on how fair her complexion is. † Sunita Gupta, a beautician in the same salon, is more critical. â€Å"It’s just foolishness! † she exclaimed. The premise of the ads that women could not become airline attendants if they are dark-skinned was wrong, she said. Nowadays people like black beauty. † It is a truism that women, especially in the tropics, desire to be a shade fairer, no matter what their skin color. Yet, unlike the approach used in India, advertisements elsewhere usually show how to use the product and how it works. Cultural Norms, Fair & Lovely, and Advertising CASE 2? 2 Fa ir & Lovely, a branded product of Hindustan Lever Ltd. (HLL), is touted as a cosmetic that lightens skin color. On its Web site (www. hll. com), the company calls its product â€Å"the miracle worker,† â€Å"proven to deliver one to three shades of change. While tanning is the rage in Western countries, skin lightening treatments are popular in Asia. According to industry sources, the top-selling skin lightening cream in India is Fair & Lovely from Hindustan Lever Ltd. (HLL), followed by CavinKare’s Fairever brand. HLL’s Fair & Lovely brand dominated the market with a 90 percent share until CavinKare Ltd. (CKL) launched Fairever. In just two years, the Fairever brand gained an impressive 15 percent market share. HLL’s share of market for the Fair & Lovely line generates about $60 million annually. The product sells for about 23 rupees ($0. 9) for a 25-gram tube of cream. The rapid growth of CavinKare’s Fairever (www. cavinkare .com) brand prompted HLL to increase its advertising effort and to launch a series of ads depicting a â€Å"fairer girl gets the boy theme. † One advertisement featured a ? nancially strapped father lamenting his fate, saying, â€Å"If only I had a son,† while his dark-skinned daughter looks on, helpless and demoralized because she can’t bear the ? – nancial responsibility of her family. Fast-forward and plain Jane has been transformed into a gorgeous light-skinned woman through the use of a â€Å"fairness cream,† Fair & Lovely. Now clad in a miniskirt, the woman is a successful ? ight attendant and can take her father to dine at a ? ve-star hotel. She’s happy and so is her father. In another ad, two attractive young women are sitting in a bedroom; one has a boyfriend and, consequently, is happy. The darkerskinned woman, lacking a boyfriend, is not happy. Her friend’s advice—Use a bar of soap to wash away the dark skin that’s keeping men from ? ocking to her. HLL’s series of ads provoked CavinKare Ltd. to counter with an ad that takes a dig at HLL’s Fair & Lovely ad. CavinKare’s ad has a father–daughter duo as the protagonists, with the father shown encouraging the daughter to be an achiever irrespective of her complexion. CavinKare maintained that the objective of its new commercial is not to take a dig at Fair & Lovely but to â€Å"reinforce Fairever’s positioning. † Skin color is a powerful theme in India, and much of Asia, where a lighter color represents a higher status. While Americans and Europeans ? ock to tanning salons, many across Asia seek ways to have â€Å"fair† complexions. Culturally, fair skin is associated with positive values that relate to class and beauty. One Indian lady commented that when she was growing up, her mother forbade her to go outdoors. She was not trying to keep her daughter out of trouble but was trying to keep her skin from getting dark. Brahmins, the priestly caste at the top of the social hierarchy, are considered fair because they traditionally stayed inside, poring over books. The undercaste at the bottom of the ladder are regarded as the darkest people because they customarily worked in the searing sun. Ancient Hindu scriptures and modern poetry eulogize women endowed with skin made of white marble. Skin color is closely identi? ed with caste and is laden with symbolism. Pursue any of the â€Å"grooms† and â€Å"brides wanted† ads cat2994X_case2_019-046. indd 25 cat2994X_case2_019-046. indd 25 8/27/10 2:05 PM 8/27/10 2:05 PM Part 6 Supplementary Material three-month Home Healthcare Nursing Assistant course catering to young women between the ages of 18 and 30 years. According to HLL, the Fair & Lovely Academy for Home Care Nursing Assistants offers a unique training opportunity for young women who possess no entry-level skills and therefore are not employable in the new economy job market. The Fair & Lovely Foundation plans to serve as a catalyst for the economic empowerment for women across India. The Fair & Lovely Foundation will showcase the achievements of these women not only to honor them but also to set an example for other women to follow. AIDWA’s campaign against ads that convey the message, â€Å"if she is not fair in color, she won’t get married or won’t get promoted,† also has resulted in some adjustment to fairness cream ads. In revised versions of the fairness cream ads, the â€Å"get fair to attract a groom† theme is being reworked with â€Å"enhance your selfcon? ence† so that a potential groom himself begs for attention. It is an attempt at typifying the modern Indian woman, who has more than just marriage on her mind. Advertising focus is now on the message that lighter skin enables women to obtain jobs conventionally held by men. She is career-oriented, has high aspirations, and, at the same time, wants to lo ok good. AIDWA concedes that the current crop of television ads for fairness creams are â€Å"not as demeaning† as ones in the past. However, it remains against the product; as the president of AIDWA stated, â€Å"It is downright racist to denigrate dark skin. † Although AIWDA’s campaign against fairness creams seems to have had a modest impact on changing the advertising message, it has not slowed the demand for fairness creams. Sales of Fair & Lovely, for example, have been growing 15 to 20 percent year over year, and the $318 million market for skin care has grown by 42. 7 percent in the last three years. Says Euromonitor International, a research ? rm: â€Å"Half of the skin care market in India is fairness creams and 60 to 65 percent of Indian women use these products daily. † Recently, several Indian companies were extending their marketing of fairness creams beyond urban and rural markets. CavinKare’s launch of Fairever, a fairness cream in a small sachet pack priced at Rs 5, aimed at rural markets where some 320 million Indians reside. Most marketers have found rural markets impossible to penetrate pro? tably due to low income levels and inadequate distribution systems, among other problems. However, HLL is approaching the market through Project Shakti, a rural initiative that targets small villages with populations of 2,000 people or less. It empowers underprivileged rural women by providing income-generating opportunities to sell small, lower priced packets of its brands in villages. Special packaging for the rural market was designed to provide single-use sachet packets at 50 paise for a sachet of shampoo to Rs 5 for a fairness cream (for a week’s usage). The aim is to have 100,000 â€Å"Shakti Ammas,† as they are called, spread across 500,000 villages in India by year end. CavinKare is growing at 25 percent in rural areas compared with 15 percent in urban centers. In addition to expanding market effort into rural markets, an unexpected market arose when a research study revealed Indian men were applying girlie fairness potions in droves—but on the sly. It was estimated that 40 percent of boyfriends/husbands of girlfriends/wives were applying white magic solutions that came in little tubes. Indian companies spotted a business opportunity, and Fair & Handsome, Menz Active, Fair One Man, and a male bleach called Saka were introduced to the male market. The sector expanded dramatically when Shah Rukh Khan, a highly acclaimed Commenting on the cultural bias toward fair skin, one critic states, â€Å"There are attractive people who go through life feeling inferior to their fairer sisters. And all because of charming grandmothers and aunts who do not hesitate to make un? attering comparisons. Kalee Kalooti is an oft-heard comment about women who happen to have darker skin. They get humiliated and morti? ed over the color of their skin, a fact over which they have no control. Are societal values responsible? Or advertising campaigns? Advertising moguls claim they only re? ect prevailing attitudes in India. This is possibly true but what about ethics in advertising? Is it correct to make advertisements that openly denigrate a majority of Indian people—the dark-skinned populace? The advertising is blatant in their strategy. Mock anyone who is not the right color and shoot down their self-image. † A dermatologist comments, â€Å"Fairness obtained with the help of creams is short-lived. The main reason being, most of these creams contain a certain amount of bleaching agent, which whitens facial hair, and not the skin, which leads people to believe that the cream worked. † Furthermore, â€Å"In India the popularity of a product depends totally on the success of its advertising. HLL launched its television ad campaign to promote Fair & Lovely but withdrew it after four months amid severe criticism for its portrayal of women. Activists argued that one of the messages the company sends through its â€Å"air hostess† ads demonstrating the preference for a son who would be able to take on the ? nancial responsibility for his parents is especially harmful in a country such as India where gender discrimination is rampant. Another offense is perpet uating a culture of discrimination in a society where â€Å"fair† is synonymous with â€Å"beautiful. AIDWA (All India Women’s Democratic Association) lodged a complaint at the time with HLL about their offensive ads, but Hindustan Lever failed to respond. The women’s association then appealed to the National Human Rights Commission alleging that the ad demeaned women. AIDWA objected to three things: (1) the ads were racist, (2) they were promoting son preference, and (3) they were insulting to working women. â€Å"The way they portrayed the young woman who, after using Fair & Lovely, became attractive and therefore lands a job suggested that the main quali? ation for a woman to get a job is the way she looks. † The Human Rights Commission passed AIDWA’s complaints on to the Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, which said the campaign violated the Cable and Television Network Act of 1995—provisions in the act state that no advertisemen t shall be permitted which â€Å"derides any race, caste, color, creed and nationality† and that â€Å"Women must not be portrayed in a manner that emphasized passive, submissive qualities and encourages them to play a subordinate secondary role in the family and society. † The government issued notices of the complaints to HLL. After a year-long campaign led by the AIDWA, Hindustan Lever Limited discontinued two of its television advertisements for Fair & Lovely fairness cold cream. Shortly after pulling its ads off the air, HLL launched its Fair & Lovely Foundation, vowing to â€Å"encourage economic empowerment of women across India† by providing resources in education and business to millions of women â€Å"who, though immensely talented and capable, need a guiding hand to help them take the leap forward,† presumably into a fairer future. HLL sponsored career fairs in over 20 cities across the country offering counseling in as many as 110 careers. It supported 100 rural scholarships for women students passing their 10th grade, a professional course for aspiring beauticians, and a cat2994X_case2_019-046. indd 26 cat2994X_case2_019-046. indd 26 8/27/10 2:05 PM 8/27/10 2:05 PM Cases 2 The Cultural Environment of Global Marketing 2. Is it ethical to exploit cultural norms and values to promote a product? Discuss. 3. Is the advertising of Fair & Lovely demeaning to women, or is it promoting the fairness cream in a way not too dissimilar from how most cosmetics are promoted? 4. Will HLL’s Fair & Lovely Foundation be enough to counter charges made by AIDWA? Discuss. 5. In light of AIDWA’s charges, how would you suggest Fair & Lovely promote its product? Discuss. Would your response be different if Fairever continued to use â€Å"fairness† as a theme of its promotion? Discuss. 6. Propose a promotion/marketing program that will counter all the arguments and charges against Fair & Lovely and be an effective program. 7. Now that a male market for fairness cream exists, is the strength of AIDWA’s argument weakened? 8. Comment on using â€Å"Shakti Ammas† to introduce â€Å"fairness cream for the masses† in light of AIDWA’s charges. Sources: Nicole Leistikow, â€Å"Indian Women Criticize ‘Fair and Lovely’ Ideal,† Women’s eNews , April 28, 2003; Arundhati Parmar, â€Å"Objections to Indian Ad Not Taken Lightly,† Marketing News , June 9, 2003, p. 4; â€Å"Fair & Lovely Launches Foundation to Promote Economic Empowerment of Women,† press release, Fair & Lovely Foundation, http:// www. hll. com (search for foundation), March 11, 2003; Rina Chandran, â€Å"All for SelfControl,† Business Line (The Hindu), April 24, 2003; Khozem Merchant and Edward Luce, â€Å"Not So Fair and Lovely,† Financial Times , March 19, 2003; â€Å"Fair & Lovely Rede? es Fairness with Multivitamin Total Fairness Cream,† press release, Hindustan Lever Ltd. , May 3, 2005; Dr. Deepa Kanchankoti, â€Å"Do You Think Fairness Creams Work? † http://www. mid-day. com/metro, July 13, 2005; †CavinKare Launches Small Sachet Packs,† Business India , December 7, 2006; â€Å"A nalysis of Skin Care Advertising on TV During January–August 2006,† Indiantelevision. com Media, Advertising, Marketing Watch, October 17, 2006; â€Å"Women Power Gets Full Play in CavinKare’s Brand Strategy. The Economic Times (New Delhi, India), December 8, 2006; Heather Timmons, â€Å"Telling India’s Modern Women They Have Power, Even Over Their Skin Tone,† The New York Times , May 30, 2007; â€Å"The Year We Almost Lost Tall (or Short or Medium-Height), Dark and Handsome,† The Hindustan Times , December 29, 2007; â€Å"India’s Hue and Cry Over Paler Skin,† The Sunday Telegraph (London), July 1, 2007; â€Å"Fair and Lovely? † University Wire , June 4, 2007; â€Å"The Race to Keep up with Modern India,† Media, June 29, 2007; Aneel Karnani, â€Å"Doing Well by Doing Good—Case Study: ‘Fair & Lovely’ Whitening Cream,† Strategic Management Journal 28, no. 3 (2007), pp. 1351–57. Boll ywood actor likened to an Indian Tom Cruise, decided to endorse Fair & Handsome. Euromonitor International forecasts that in the next ? ve years, spending on men’s grooming products will rise 24 percent to 14. 5 billion rupees, or US$320 million. A recent product review in www. mouthshut. com, praises Fair & Lovely fairness cream: â€Å"[Fair & Lovely] contains fairness vitamins which penetrate deep down our skin to give us radiant fairness. â€Å"I don’t know if it can change the skin color from dark to fair, but my personal experience is that it works very well, if you have a naturally fair color and want to preserve it without much headache. † â€Å"I think Riya Sen has the best skin right now in Bollywood. It appears to be really soft and tender. So, to have a soft and fair skin like her I recommend Fair & Lovely Fairness Lotion or Cream. † Yet â€Å"skin color isn’t a proof of greatness. Those with wheatish or dark skin are by no way inferio r to those who have fair skin. † Here are a few facts from Hindustan Lever Ltd. s homepage: Lever Limited is India’s largest Packaged Mass Consumption Goods Company. We are leaders in Home and Personal Care Products and Food and Beverages including such products as Ponds and Pepsodent. We seek to meet everyday needs of people everywhere—to anticipate the aspirations of our consumers and customers and to respond creatively and competitively with branded products and services which raise the quality of life. It is this purpose which inspires us to build brands. Over the past 70 years, we have introduced about 110 brands. Fair & Lovely has been specially designed and proven to eliver one to three shades of change in most people. Also its sunscreen system is specially optimized for Indian skin. Indian skin, unlike Caucasian skin, tends to â€Å"tan† rather than â€Å"burn† and, hence, requires a different combination of UVA and UVB sunscreens. You may w ant to visit HLL’s homepage (www. hhl. com) for additional information about the company. QUESTIONS 1. Is it ethical to sell a product that is, at best, only mildly effective? Discuss. cat2994X_case2_019-046. indd 27 cat2994X_case2_019-046. indd 27 8/27/10 2:05 PM 8/27/10 2:05 PM

Introduction to Export Finance Essay

Credit and finance is the life and blood of any business whether domestic or international. It is more important in the case of export transactions due to the prevalence of novel non-price competitive techniques encountered by exporters in various nations to enlarge their share of world markets. The selling techniques are no longer confined to mere quality; price or delivery schedules of the products but are extended to payment terms offered by exporters. Liberal payment terms usually score over the competitors not only of capital equipment but also of consumer goods. The payment terms however depend upon the availability of finance to exporters in relation to its quantum, cost and the period at pre-shipment and post-shipment stage. Production and manufacturing for substantial supplies for exports take time, in case finance is not available to exporter for production. They will not be in a position to book large export order if they don’t have sufficient financial funds. Even merchandise exporters require finance for obtaining products from their suppliers. This project is an attempt to throw light on the various sources of export finance available to exporters, the schemes implemented by ECGC and EXIM for export promotion and the recent developments in the form of tie-EXIM tie-ups, credit policy announced by RBI in Oct 2001 and TRIMS. Concept of Export Finance: The exporter may require short term, medium term or long term finance depending upon the types of goods to be exported and the terms of statement offered to overseas buyer. The short-term finance is required to meet â€Å"working capital† needs. The working capital is used to meet regular and recurring needs of a business firm. The regular and recurring needs of a business firm refer to purchase of raw material, payment of wages and salaries, expenses like payment of rent, advertising etc. The exporter may also require â€Å"term finance†. The term finance or term loans, which is required for medium and long term financial needs such as purchase of fixed assets and long term working capital. Export finance is short-term working capital finance allowed to an exporter. Finance and credit are available not only to help export production but also to sell to overseas customers on credit. Objectives of Export Finance: * To cover commercial & Non-commercial or political risks attendant on granting credit to a foreign buyer. * To cover natural risks like an earthquake, floods etc. An exporter may avail financial assistance from any bank, which considers the ensuing factors: a) Availability of the funds at the required time to the exporter. b) Affordability of the cost of funds. Appraisal: Appraisal means an approval of an export credit proposal of an exporter. While appraising an export credit proposal as a commercial banker, obligation to the following institutions or regulations needs to be adhered to. Obligations to the RBI under the Exchange Control Regulations are: * Appraise to be the bank’s customer. * Appraise should have the Exim code number allotted by the Director General of Foreign Trade. * Party’s name should not appear under the caution list of the RBI. Obligations to the Trade Control Authority under the EXIM policy are: * Appraise should have IEC number allotted by the DGFT. * Goods must be freely exportable i.e. not falling under the negative list. If it falls under the negative list, then a valid license should be there which allows the goods to be exported. * Country with whom the Appraise wants to trade should not be under trade barrier. Obligations to ECGC are: * Verification that Appraise is not under the Specific Approval list (SAL). * Sanction of Packing Credit Advances. Guidelines for banks dealing in Export Finance: When a commercial bank deals in export finance it is bound by the ensuing guidelines: – a) Exchange control regulations. b) Trade control regulations. c) Reserve Bank’s directives issued through IECD. d) Export Credit Guarantee Corporation guidelines. e) Guidelines of Foreign Exchange Dealers Association of India.

Medieval Clothing and Fabrics in the Middle Ages

In medieval times, as today, both fashion and necessity dictated what people wore. And both fashion and necessity, in addition to cultural tradition and available materials, varied across the centuries of the Middle Ages and across the countries of Europe. After all, no one would expect the clothes of an eighth-century Viking to bear any resemblance to those of a 15th-century Venetian. So when you ask the question What did a man (or woman) wear in the Middle Ages? be prepared to answer some questions yourself.  Where did he live? When did he live? What was his station in life (noble, peasant, merchant, cleric)? And for what purpose might he be wearing a particular set of clothes? Types of Materials Used in Medieval Clothing The many types of synthetic and blended fabrics people wear today were simply not available in medieval times.  But this didnt mean that everyone wore heavy wool, burlap, and animal skins. Different textiles were manufactured in a range of weights and could vary greatly in quality. The more finely woven the textile was, the softer and more costly it would be. Various fabrics, such as taffeta, velvet, and damask were made from textiles like silk, cotton, and  linen using specific weaving techniques. These were not generally available in the earlier Middle Ages, and were among the more expensive fabrics for the extra time and care it took to make them. Materials available for use in medieval clothing included: Wool By far the most common fabric of the Middle Ages (and the core of the flourishing textile industry), wool was knitted or crocheted into garments, but it was more likely woven. Depending on how it was made, it could be very warm and thick, or light and airy. Wool was also felted for hats and other accessories. Linen Almost as common as wool, linen was  made from the flax plant and theoretically available to all classes. Growing flax was labor-intensive and making linen was time-consuming, however. Since the fabric wrinkled easily, it wasnt often found in garments worn by poorer folk. Fine linen was used for the veils and wimples of ladies, undergarments, and a wide variety of apparel and household furnishings.​ Silk Luxurious and costly, silk was used only by the wealthiest of classes and the Church.   Hemp Less costly than flax, hemp and nettles were used to create workaday fabrics in the Middle Ages. Though more common for such uses as sails and rope, hemp may also have been used for aprons and undergarments. Cotton Cotton doesnt grow well in cooler climes, so its use in medieval garments was less common in northern Europe than wool or linen. Still, a cotton industry existed in southern Europe in the 12th century, and cotton became an occasional alternative to linen. Leather The production of leather goes back to prehistoric times. In the Middle Ages, leather was used for shoes, belts, armor, horse tackle, furniture, and a wide assortment of everyday products. Leather could be dyed, painted, or tooled in a variety of fashions for ornamentation. Fur In early medieval Europe, fur was common, but thanks in part to the use of animal skins by Barbarian cultures, it was considered too crass to wear in public. It was, however, used to line gloves and outer garments. By the tenth century, fur came back into fashion, and everything from beaver, fox, and sable to vair (squirrel), ermine, and marten was used for warmth and status. Colors Found in Medieval Clothing Dyes came from a lot of different sources, some of them far more expensive than others.  Still, even the humble peasant could have colorful clothing. Using plants, roots, lichen, tree bark, nuts, crushed insects, mollusks, and iron oxide, virtually every color of the rainbow could be achieved. However, adding color was an extra step in the manufacturing process that raised its price, so clothing made from an undyed fabric in various shades of beige and off-white was not uncommon among the poorest folk. A dyed fabric would fade fairly quickly if it wasnt mixed with a mordant, and bolder shades required either longer dyeing times or more expensive dyes. Thus, the fabrics with the brightest and richest colors cost more and were, therefore, most often found on the nobility and the very rich. One natural dye that did not require a mordant was  woad,  a flowering plant that yielded a dark blue dye. Woad was used so extensively in both professional and home dyeing that it became known as Dyers Woad, and garments of a variety of blue shades could be found on people of virtually every level of society. Garments Worn Under Medieval Clothing Throughout much of the Middle Ages and in most societies, the undergarments worn by both men and women didnt substantially change. Basically, they consisted of a shirt or under-tunic, stockings or hose, and some kind of underpants or breeches for men. There is no evidence that women regularly wore underpants — but with a matter of such delicacy that the garments became known as unmentionables, this isn’t surprising. Women may have worn underpants, depending on their resources, the nature of their outer garments, and their personal preferences. Medieval Hats, Caps, and Head Coverings Virtually everyone wore something on their heads in the Middle Ages, to keep off the sun in hot weather, to keep their heads warm in cold weather, and to keep dirt out of their hair. Of course, as with every other type of garment, hats could indicate a persons job or their station in life and could make a fashion statement. But hats were especially important socially, and to knock someones hat off his or her head was a grave insult that, depending on the circumstances, could even be considered assault. Types of mens hats included wide-brimmed straw hats, close-fitting coifs of linen or hemp that tied under the chin like a bonnet, and a wide variety of felt, cloth or knitted caps. Women wore veils and wimples. Among the fashion-conscious nobility of the High Middle Ages, some fairly complex hats and head rolls for men and women were in vogue. Both men and women wore hoods, often attached to capes or jackets but sometimes standing alone. Some of the more complicated mens hats were actually hoods with a long strip of fabric in the back that could be wound around the head. A common accouterment for men of the working classes was a hood attached to a short cape that covered just the shoulders. Medieval Nightwear You may have heard that in the Middle Ages, everyone slept naked. Like most generalizations, this cant be perfectly accurate — and in cold weather, it is so unlikely it becomes painfully ridiculous. Illuminations, woodcuts, and other period artwork illustrate medieval people in bed in different attire. Some are unclothed, but just as many are wearing simple gowns or shirts, some with sleeves. Though we have virtually no documentation regarding what people wore to bed, from these images we can glean that those who wore nightdress could have been clad in an under-tunic (possibly the same one theyd worn during the day) or even in a lightweight gown made especially for sleeping, depending on their financial status. As it is true today, what people wore to bed depended on their resources, the climate, family custom, and their own personal preferences. Sumptuary Laws Clothing was the quickest and easiest way to identify someones status and station in life. The monk in his cassock, the servant in his livery, the peasant in his simple tunic were all instantly recognizable, as was the knight in armor or the lady in her fine gown. Whenever members of the lower strata of society blurred the lines of social distinction by wearing clothing ordinarily found only among the upper classes, people found it unsettling, and some saw it as downright offensive. Throughout the medieval era, but especially in the later Middle Ages, laws were passed to regulate what could and could not be worn by members of different social classes. These laws, known as sumptuary laws, not only attempted to maintain the separation of the classes, they also addressed excessive expenditures on all sorts of items. The clergy and more pious secular leaders had concerns about the conspicuous consumption the nobility was prone to, and sumptuary laws were an attempt to reign in what some found to be distastefully ostentatious displays of wealth. Although there are known cases of prosecution under sumptuary laws, they seldom worked. It was difficult to police everyones purchases. Since the punishment for breaking the law was usually a fine, the very rich could still acquire whatever they pleased and pay the price with hardly a second thought. Still, the passage of sumptuary laws persisted through the Middle Ages. The Evidence There are exceedingly few garments surviving from the Middle Ages. The exceptions are the apparel found with the bog bodies, most of whom died before the medieval period, and a handful of rare and costly items preserved through extraordinary good fortune. Textiles simply cannot withstand the elements, and unless they are buried with metal, they will deteriorate in the grave without a trace. How, then, do we really know what people wore? Traditionally, costumers and historians of material culture have turned to period artwork. Statues, paintings, illuminated manuscripts, tomb effigies, even the extraordinary Bayeux Tapestry all depict contemporaries in medieval dress. But great care must be taken when evaluating these representations. Often contemporary for the artist was a generation or two too late for the subject. Sometimes, there was no attempt at all to represent a historical figure in clothing appropriate to the figures time period. And unfortunately, most of the picture books and magazine series produced in the 19th century, from which a large percentage of modern histories are drawn, are based on misleading period artwork. Many of them further mislead with inappropriate colors and the casual addition of anachronistic garments. Matters are further complicated by the fact that terminology is not consistent from one source to the next. There are no period documentary sources fully describing garments and providing their names. The historian must pick up these bits of scattered data from a wide range of sources — including wills, account books, and letters — and interpret exactly what is meant by each item mentioned. There is nothing straightforward about medieval clothing history. The truth is, the study of medieval clothing is in its infancy. With any luck, future historians will break open the treasure trove of facts about medieval clothing and share its riches with the rest of us. Until then, we amateurs and non-specialists must take our best guess based on what little weve learned. Sources Dickson, Brandy. Cotton is Period? Really? Brandy Dickson, 2004-2008. Houston, Mary G. Medieval Costume in England and France: The 13th, 14th and 15th Centuries. Dover Fashion and Costumes, Kindle Edition, Dover Publications, August 28, 2012. Jenkins, David (Editor). The Cambridge History of Western Textiles 2 Volume Hardback Boxed Set. Hardcover, Cambridge University Press; Slp edition, September 29, 2003. Kà ¶hler, Carl. A History of Costume. Dover Fashion and Costumes, Kindle Edition, Dover Publications, May 11, 2012. Mahe, Yvette, Ph.D. History of Fur in Fashion 10th to 19th Century. Fashion Time, February 19, 2012. Medieval Veils, Wimples and Gorgets. Rosalie Gilbert. Netherton, Robin. Medieval Clothing and Textiles. Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Hardcover, The Boydell Press, July 18, 2013. Norris, Herbert. Medieval Costume and Fashion. Paperback, Dover Publications Inc., 1745. Piponnier, Francoise. Dress in the Middle Ages. Perrine Mane, Caroline Beamish (Translator), Paperback, Yale University Press, August 11, 2000. Priest, Carolyn. Period Leather-working techniques. Thora Sharptooth, Ron Charlotte, John Nash, I. Marc Carlson, 1996, 1999, 2001. Virtue, Cynthia. How to be a HOOD-lum: Medieval hoods. Cynthia Virtue, 1999, 2005. Virtue, Cynthia. How to make a Coif: 1 and 3 piece patterns. Cynthia Virtue, 1999-2011. Virtue, Cynthia. Mens Stuffed-Roll Hats. Cynthia Virtue, 2000. Virtue, Cynthia. Womens Roll Hats. Cynthia Virtue, 1999. Zajaczkowa, Jadwiga. Hemp and Nettle. Slovo, Jennifer A Heise, 2002-2003.

To What Extent are ‘Othello’ and Oedipus Rex Perfect...

‘Othello’ was written between 1601 and 1603. It was first performed in the Elizabethan courts during the Christmas season. The idea of a ‘perfect’ tragedy is the idea that the tragedy is faultless; it does what is expected; so makes the audience feel empathy and sympathy for the characters who suffer. There are two different types of tragedy: classical tragedy and Shakespearean tragedy. The tragic hero in this play is the main character, Othello. Othellos misfortune comes about because of his jealousy, trust, and his pride. This essay aims to look at, and compare, how Shakespeare wrote his tragedy, and how other tragedies are written. I will mainly compare ‘Othello’, for Shakespearean tragedy, and ‘Oedipus Rex’, by Sophocles, for†¦show more content†¦Unlike the other Shakespeare tragedies, which follow the common ideas for Shakespearean tragedy, ‘Othello’ includes some of the ideas from classical tragedie s. Some of these include the downfall from high position – Othello goes from being the general, to being convicted of being a murderer. Innocent characters also suffer, like Desdemona. Othello accused her of being unfaithful, when she never was. He ends up killing her out of jealousy; when she does not deserve it. As it was stated earlier, one of the features of a classical tragedy is that an innocent character suffers. However, it seems that this also appears in ‘Othello’, as Desdemona’s suffering is very prominent. In act 4, scene 3, Desdemona is talking to Emilia about all that she is worried about, and thinking about. One of the most emotional things that Desdemona talks about was her â€Å"mother had a maid called Barbary: / She was in love, and he she loved proved mad / And did forsake her† (4.3.25-27). She then has a premonition of death and requests Emilia, if she should die, to wrap her body in one of her wedding sheets, which are now on the bed, â€Å"If I do die before thee, prithee shroud me / In one of those same sheets† (4.3.23-24). Desdemona sings the â€Å"Willow Song,† and, in this indirect way, she faces the real possibility that Othello is going mad and willShow MoreRelatedEssay about Universal truth (Shakespeare)1860 Words    |  8 Pages In both â€Å"Othello† and â€Å"Oedipus Rex† to a great extent, the emotions provoked by familiar human experiences are acceptable to all people of all times. It is a fact that â€Å"Human nature remains the same (Kiernan Ryan 1989).† Both plays explore issues surrounding emotions like love, envy, jealousy and pride provoked by life experiences such as racism, fate, rifts between parent and child, a quest for position through deception or for justice or an intoxicating sense of being all powerful which transcendRead MoreEssay Death of a Salesman, Tragic Hero. Willy Loman.1503 Words   |  7 PagesTo what extent can Willy Loman be considered a tragic hero according to Aristotle’s rules? Arthur Miller presents his play ‘Death of a Salesman’ in the ancient form of a tragedy. Aristotle has defined his idea of the ‘perfect’ tragedy in his text, ‘Poetics’ (350 BC).Here he suggests that the protagonist must fall from an elevated social standing as a result of a â€Å"fatal flaw† within the character; the fall from the main character creates resolution to the play which is seen as just; finally, Aristotle

NCAA Atheltics Young Money Essay - 969 Words

To pay or not to pay, that is the question. This question, one of disparity, confronts the NCAA all the time today. Football and basketball players generate billions of dollars in revenue for their schools but do not receive any. College athletes cannot be paid because of the â€Å"no pay† rules and the â€Å"Principle of Amateurism.† The NCAA will not have to deal with as many rule violations and scandals. Plus, the NCAA could still label an amateurism principle without actually crossing the line with professionalism. Because athletes are focusing solely on sports and have no time to do anything else, athletes need money to support themselves. Not only does the school acquire revenue from ticket sales, apparel and sponsorships, but it becomes more†¦show more content†¦Shapiro also offered the players services that included entertainment, yacht rentals, paid vacations, prostitutes, nightclubs, jewelry, and abortions. Not all of what he offered was right but he still should have been allowed to pay the players bounties. The bounties he paid players caused him to suffer in court the most. He was sentenced to a total of twenty years in federal prison. Also, at Ohio State University, five players were suspended for five games for trading signed memorabilia for cash and tattoos at a tattoo parlor. Because of the â€Å"no pay† rules, student athletes cannot receive any pay from that sport or any form of future assistance. Should the â€Å"no pay† rules no longer be a factor, the NCAA would not have to deal with as many scandals that involve the paying of athletes. The only way to eliminate or greatly reduce the number of scandals is by implementing a change in the NCAA Division I Manual. Not only do the players play hard for the school, but they also have the potential to earn money through commercial signings and endorsements by third party sponsors. The NCAA should lift the â€Å"Principle of Amateurism† and establish a newer one that resembles the one of the Olympics. The Olympics’ amateur model resembles the NCAA’s â€Å"Principle of Amateurism† except for the fact that they do not have restrictions on commercial opportunities such as

Understanding of Genre and Field - Tenor and Mode - Free Sample

Question: With an understanding of genre and field, tenor and mode. How do you think this is helpful in understanding how language works? What aspects of this model do you think you can use in helping your students to understand how to make meaning? Answer: In order to evolve the language system within the students in a school environment, the Australian curriculum has introduced the four concepts namely the genre, the field, the tenor and mode. Genre is the functional term that refers to the language process that denoted certain actions. Thus in an Australian English curriculum the teachers uses the five major genres namely describing, explaining, instructing, arguing and narrating to frame the grammatical languages. Moreover, Young Walsh, (2010) opined that in order to frame the language structures the use of Fields are necessary. Fields are the subject matter and hence the choice of the language for the discussion of each field is different from the other. Tenor helps the individuals to frame the language in a connecting and sympathetic manner at the time of delivery to the audience. Mode on the contrary refers to the channels of communication and the type of language that should be used for each channel. Derewianka Jones (2012) su ggested that ion schools the two types of modes are written and oral and it is necessary for the teachers to teach the students to use different languages for different types of modes. In the context of Australian English curriculum, the teachers may use the different aspects of the above model in order to help the students understand the grammatical language. The genre will help the students to understand the ongoing process within a specific sentence. For instance, if a sentence is concerned with cooking of dinner then the students will be able to make the meaning of the words like cooking, chopping etc. The participants are expressed as noun groups within the sentences like dishes, gas stoves etc. This is followed by the identification of the circumstances that has a relation with the participant. References Derewianka, B. Jones, P. (2012).Teaching language in context.Melbourne: Oxford University Press Young, T., Walsh, S. (2010). Which English? Whose English? An investigation of non-native teachers' beliefs about target varieties.Language, Culture And Curriculum,23(2), 123-137.

The Effectiveness of Chili and Kamias as Natural Insect Repellant free essay sample

What is the most effective concentration of Chili and Kamias mixtures with the highest effectiveness as an insect repellant. 2. What is the significance of the study in terms of cost of production and effectiveness compared to commercially available insect repellants? 3. Will there be adverse effects of the natural insect repellent on the different species of insects to be used in this study? II. Background of the Study An  insect repellent  is a substance applied to skin, clothing, or other surfaces which discourages  insects  (and  arthropods  in general) from landing or climbing on that surface. Most pesticides ans insecticides are used in homes, gardens and farms to kill or deter pests and insects. Insects and pests need to be kept away because they cause diseases and cause damage to property. Some pests like the cockroach   are also very unhygienic. The most common household pesticides are chemically manufactured and may contain toxins that may be harmful to our he alth, especially to children. We will write a custom essay sample on The Effectiveness of Chili and Kamias as Natural Insect Repellant or any similar topic specifically for you Do Not WasteYour Time HIRE WRITER Only 13.90 / page These chemically manufactured spray-can of insecticide generate fumes, releasing chemicals that spread everywhere and are inhaled. Also, most farmers use pesticides to protect their crops and increase yield. However, these pesticides seep into the soil, contaminate ground water and hence,   adversely affect the food chain. Natural pesticides are products made of only naturally occuring substances and are a much safer way to keep pests and insects away without harming our environment. Since natural pesticides are made of natural substances, they will not harm us. Examples of how natural pesticides are used include the use of borax acid to repel termites and cockroaches. Lemon juice, bay leaves and cucumber peel help to keep ants away. Pepper spray can repel and kill crickets. Honey is very useful in attracting flies and used as fly traps. Termites are usually repelled by borax and vinegar (acetic acid). Because of the differences between types of insects, studies show that products that contain multiple repellents tend to be more effective than those containing a single ingredient. This study will explore the importance of the chili and kamias fruit as an insect repellent. According to recent studies on the feasibility of Chili peppers as a potent pesticide, it was found out that Powdered chili pepper  deters the onion fly,  Delia antiqua, from laying eggs and a chemical from from hot peppers reduces  growth of the spiny bollworm,  Earias insulana  and may repel cotton pests. Researchers at Kentucky State University studied how well pepper insecticide worked and what kind of peppers make the best insecticide. They found that powdered chili pepper kept onion flies from laying eggs. Also  hot  peppers  worked well against some types of worms and pests found in the cotton field. Researchers only found one pepper insecticide that killed spider mites, and that was made from tabasco chili peppers. The best general insecticide seemed to be made from just about any kind of hot pepper. 2 Kamias fruit, on the other hand, is considered as an antibacterial, astringent, antiscorbutic, febrifuge, antidiabetic, stomachic, refrigerant. The fruit also has high oxalic acid content. Studies show that vaporized oxalic acid, or a 3. % solution of oxalic acid in sugar syrup, is used by some  beekeepers  as a  miticide  against the parasitic  varroa mite and can be explored as a helpful ingredient for an organic insect repellent. In turn, this study would like to implore on the affectivity of the combined property of each fruit. III. Significance of the Study The effectiveness and low cost of production of the proposed natural insect repellant will help alleviate the high cost of commercially available insect repellants in the market. The high availability of the fruits in the country ould suffice for the production of the chili-kamias insect repellant. IV. Scope and Limitations This research will focus on the combined effectiveness of chili and kamias mixtures as an insect repellant on specific plants and insects only. It will also focus on the toxicity it may have on plants. For this study, the researchers will only use 100%, 75%, 50% and 25% and 0% concentrations of chili extract in kamias extract. V. Materials and Methodology Materials: ? kilo of kamias fruit 1 ? kilo of chili mortar and pestle kettle gas stove product container Procedure: 1. For this study, the independent variable is the concentration of the chili extract– 100%, 75%, 50% and 25%, 0% in kamias extract. 2. Near accessible plants are to be used as a test factor and will measure qualitatively the number of insects affected by the chili-kamias extract. 100grams of chili and kamias each are purchased from the supermarket. 3. Beakers, spray dispensers and plants are labeled as â€Å"100%†, â€Å"75%†, â€Å"50%† and â€Å"25%† and â€Å"0%† according to the concentration of the chili extract used. 4. Grind 150grams of chili and add 300ml of distilled water whilst grinding. Do the same for the Kamias fruits. Grind 100 grams of Kamias and add 250 ml of water whilst grinding. After grinding, the mixtures are boiled for 5 minutes to maximize juice extraction. The juices are then extracted and poured in a measuring cylinder. After straining out remaining solids, pour 100ml of the ground chili extract into the beaker labeled â€Å"100%†and 75ml Into the beaker labeled â€Å"75%†. 75ml chili extract is mixed with an additional 25ml of Kamias extract. The beaker marked â€Å"50%† will contain 50ml of chili juice mixed with an additional 50ml kamias extract. The beaker marked â€Å"25%† will contain 25ml of chili juice mixed with an additional 75ml of Kamias extract. The beaker marked â€Å"0%† will contain 100ml of Kamias extract. 10 drops of detergent are added to each of the mixtures. 5. Pour the corresponding mixtures into the respective spray dispensers. 6. The respective concentrations of Birds Eye chili are sprayed 5 times in each plant. The plants are to be observed every two to three hours until a week. The results are recorded in a table. References: 1 www. wikipedia. com http://en. wikipedia. org/wiki/Insect_repellent 2 Homemade Organic Pepper Insecticide | eHow. com  http://www. ehow. com/way_5763469_homemade-organic-pepper-insecticide. html#ixzz21itGOaOy